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(1x) Element RC Knight Runner Enduro 4x4 (Required)
You will need an Element RC Knight Runner Enduro to use as a parts donor for the the drivetrain, suspension, motor, etc.
(1x) Assorted M3 Fasteners (Required)
You will need an assortment of M3 bolts to assemble RC body. I recommend this pack with a range of lengths with button heads and flat heads.
Bambu Lab X1C (Optional)
I highly recommend the Bambu Lab X1C or X1E printer for this project. I used this printer exclusively to print the RC Tacoma.
(3x) Bambu Lab PLA Basic Filament 1kg (Required)
I used Bambu Lab PLA Basic for all of the body panels on the truck.
(1x) Bambu Lab Support for PLA/PETG 0.5kg (Optional)
I strongly prefer printing using dedicated support material. Print times will be longer, but ultimately you will save much more time and elbow grease when it comes to removing support material and cleaning up part.
(1x) Brass Inserts (Required)
You will need these M3 x 4mm x 5mm brass inserts. This particular set comes with the appropriately sized adaptor for your soldering iron allowing you to press the inserts into the bosses on your 3D printed parts.
(1x) CA Glue Thin, (1x) CA Glue Thick (Required)
GH1200 CA glue is the best I have found for gluing PLA printed parts. It is helpful to have the thin stuff that penetrates deep into cracks, and some of the thicker stuff the fill gaps between imperfectly fitting parts.
(1x) Zip Kicker (Recommended)
While not required, Zip Kicker is extremely helpful during the glue-up process. One pump instantly cures the CA glue so you don’t need sit there squeezing two parts together while the glue cures.
(4x) Rust-oleum 2-in-1 Sandable Primer (Required)
By far the best sandable primer. Does an excellent job at filling in the layer lines on 3D printed parts, dries extremely quickly, and sands to a very smooth finish.
(1x) Rust-oleum Black Enamel (Required)
This gloss black enamel works perfectly as finish for windows and windshields. Lays onto the sandable primer with a perfect finish.
(1x) Rust-oleum Automotive Trim & Bumper (Required)
This paint achieves that lightly textured satin bumper trim finish that is perfect for the Grill, Bed, and Wheel Arch Moldings.
(2x) ERA Basecoat & Clearcoat (Required)
Obviously the basecoat color is up to you. But I highly recommend using ERA’s official Toyota touch up paint if your goal is accurately match a real tacoma paint code. The level of metallic flake matches true factory tacoma paint. 2-3 coats of clear top coat will be required to make the body panels really pop.
(1x) Proxxon Dremel Tool (Optional)
Any dremel tool will work, but I used this extremely high quality German engineered rotary tool for sanding parts and polishing the paint to its final luster. The advantage of going with Proxxon is the rotary tool is compatible with the mini drill press so you can mount the tool and drill perfectly plumb holes, and mount a soldering iron for pressing in brass threaded inserts.
(1x) Proxxon Mini Press (Optional)
Compatible with the Proxxon rotary tool, and the soldering Iron below. Makes pressing brass inserts into parts much easier, and ensures a perfect alignment. Extremely precise tool with impressive build quality.
(1x) Soldering Iron (Required)
Any soldering iron with variable temperature control will do. However this one is compatible with the Proxxon Mini Press. Mount the adaptor that comes with the brass inserts above in order to heat and press the M3 threaded inserts into PLA parts.
(1x) Wet/Dry Sanding Sponges (Recommended)
Sanding sponges are critical for sanding parts with compound surface curvature. The sponge backing allows the abrasives to follow the contour of the surface instead of creating flat spots. These work really well for sanding between primer coats.
(1x) Sanding Discs for Dremel (Recommended)
Hook and loop sanding discs with a variety of grits that mount to your dremel tool. This really expedites the rough sanding process. This product also includes polishing heads that I used to buff paint with polishing compound.
(1x) Paint Polishing Compound (Recommended)
I used this two stage polishing compound with the dremel and a buffing head to achieve a mirror finish to the clear coat.
(1x) Dentist’s Vacuum Forming Tool (Optional)
A really nifty and reasonably priced vacuform that I used to thermoform the clear headlight and tail light lenses.
Works well with Acrylic and Polycarbonate sheet.